New York Fashion Week is back, taking the city by storm — during a long weekend’s worth of thundery weather, no less — and hosting a number of landmark events, including the return of brands like Ralph Lauren and 3.1 Phillip Lim to the calendar, as well as debuts from up-and-coming designers like Grace Ling and recent “Project Runway: All Stars” winner Bishme Cromartie. And there were brand ‘birthdays’ to consider too, such as the 10th anniversary of designer Rio Uribe’s label Gypsy Sport.
The week’s packed schedule officially kicked off Friday with Peter Do’s highly anticipated debut for Helmut Lang, with the ascendant Vietnamese-born designer given the chance to reinterpret the minimalist ’90s brand — which spent years without a creative director — for a new generation. Do hit many notes of the label’s original aesthetic, while infusing his own romantic sensibilities (including a collaboration with poet Ocean Vuong) into the collection, particularly with his men’s and women’s suiting.